Although I know a lot of
people who have stayed at an ashram, I’d never been to one myself, mainly
because I’m not a fan of organized religion. But when a friend convinced me
that almost anyone can gain from a visit to a place like the Isha Yoga Center,
I decided to survey it for myself. After all, a lot of travellers today are
seeking spiritual experiences—a place of peace and rest that rejuvenates mind
and body. And yoga and meditation retreats are at the top of this list.
After a short flight from Bangalore to Coimbatore, I took a 1.5-hour car ride from the airport to the
foothills of the Velliangiri Hills, where the centre is located. The centre’s
indoor and outdoor spaces were attractive and well designed; in particular the
profusion of greenery and gorgeous flowering plants were soothing. I had
imagined a more basic and austere environment, I wasn’t expecting to see carved
rocks, aesthetic woodwork, and inspired design in the architecture.
On check-in I was handed a
schedule of the week’s programme of activities which I could attend. Talking to
other visitors I quickly realised that at this centre, relaxation and a
peaceful mental state do not equal lazing. The path to improving one’s health
and finding deeper meaning to life, they believe, is through rigorous yoga,
meditation, and regulating one’s food habits. This wasn’t going to be a walk in
the park.
The Isha Center aims to be
inclusive and universal and it was clear to me that it offers something deep
and meaningful to the over 4,000 volunteers that live there. It has thousands
of visitors coming in every day from a variety of cultural, religious, and
economic backgrounds. Many seeking spirituality and a healthier lifestyle come for
short courses or just for a few days to acquire a yoga or meditation practice
that can become part of daily life.
However, because the
experience that the yoga centre offers is derived from yogic culture, Shiva is
considered the Adiyogi or the first yogi. From the huge Nandi bull at the
entrance, to the linga at the Dhyanalinga Yogic Shrine, and the rituals at the
Linga Bhairavi shrine, the symbolism, associations, and various features at the
ashram derive from what I understand as Hinduism. That said, during my three
days there I didn’t hear a word about “god,” even Shiva was not spoken of as
god, nor was there any talk of heaven or hell, superhuman controls, or victory
over evil. Instead, what I did hear a lot of was how I could enhance the
quality of my life, the perception of everything around me, and increase my
consciousness of the present.
Those like me who are unsure
of what exactly they want to experience at this centre can book a room and then
examine the possibilities available. For many, the day starts with a dip in the teerthakunds, the ashram’s sacred water bodies. One afternoon I changed
into a robe and walked down a steep flight of stairs 30 feet underground to the
large subterranean pool called the Chandrakund. The water was freezing and I
only managed to stay in it longer than a few minutes because I was distracted
by the lovely painted mural on the wall. At 5 a.m. one morning I saw yogis
heading to the teerthakunds, but I didn’t want a second dip given how cold I
had found it the first time. I directly headed to the most striking
feature of the entire centre, to me.. which was the Dhyanalinga meditation hall
and few meters away from it was the Linga Bhairavi Shrine.
These two temples or spiritual
spaces couldn’t be more different from each other. Dhyanalinga Yogic Shrine is
a spherical pillar-less brick dome, which is empty save for a large black linga
at the centre. At the entrance is a column on which I saw the symbols of
various religions of the world. It symbolizes both that this is a space of no
religious affiliation, and one that welcomes people from all of them. Groups
are led into the unlit, empty space where no one speaks. You don’t go there to
pray or perform any ritual. That’s perhaps what appealed most to me. On one
occasion a lone sitarist played a soulful tune lifting the energy in that
windowless space and allowing me to be very, very still. With eyes closed in
meditation it allowed me to unwind; the stillness, and giving up of stresses of
everyday life was one of the highlights of my time at the centre. The more
popular temple is the Linga Bhairavi, which was bustling with visitors when I
visited. I spent a few minutes and exited. For me in essence it was a religious
space akin to other Hindu temples while I personally preferred the Dhyanalinga.
But others find it deeply meditative and serene. The devi at this temple is
also said to fulfil wishes of devotees.
Courtesy:Ishafoundation.org
At the end of my long weekend
at Isha, what I realised was not rocket science: I needed to find time for
myself, practice yoga, meditate, and eat healthy on a regular basis. All the
things I knew, but had long ignored. But that’s exactly why a short break at an
ashram like this is sometimes needed—to drive home simple messages and to offer
direction on how change can happen.
No place is for everyone and
neither is Isha. It is good for those who want a spiritual retreat with or
without religion. A point to note is that though it is not religiously
affiliated it does have strong elements that are rooted in Hinduism. Simply
put, visitors imbibe as much religion and ritual as they want.
I came back home with the
strong conviction that I ought to change the way I am living. Most importantly,
it was a wake-up call to find time for my body, mind, and overall wellbeing.
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